Thursday, August 5, 2010

The Rest of the Trip

To sum up the rest of our trip following our time at Lake Titikaka, here are the highlights:

-We continued with our classes. In addition, I took a second salsa dancing and zapona (pan flute) lesson through the school.

-My dad (Marcel) arrived in Cusco and joined us for the last eight days of the vacation. Details of the last week are below.

We took a trip to Machu Picchu. This involved first taking a taxi to the train station in Ollantaytambo (more than an hour from Cusco), taking a relatively short train ride to Aguas Callientes, the closest town to Machu Picchu. There, we enjoyed the thermal hot springs. The next morning we woke up at 4 am and waited in line to get on one of the buses that would take us from the town to the ruins. It was quite impressive seeing the surrounding mountainous hills silhouetted by the darkness. By about 6 am, we were on a bus to the ruins. The road was a series of switchbacks on a rather steep hill. Within half an hour, we were into another line waiting to enter to ruins. Soon, we were in, and began a short walk up to a terrace a couple hundred feet above the main ruins where we were able to watch the sunrise over the surrounding mountainous hills before beginning our tour of the ruins. We walked up to the Sun Gate on one of the surrounding hills, walked back down to the ruins, explored many of the individual rooms, and saw a chinchilla, as well as many lizards and a millipede. We were surprised by the vast size of the ruins; they stretch over most of the hill on which they are situated. After more than six hours of exploring, we returned to a bus, rode back to Aguas Callientes, ate lunch and returned to Cusco, via train and a collective bus.

We went to Cusco's Traditional Dances at the Cultural Center featuring folk dances and music from throughout the region. Bright costumes, varied music and enthusiastic and smiling dancers made an otherwise cold auditorium warm with energy and life.

We took a trip to Parque Nacional Manu. We travelled from Cusco in a van with our tour guide, cook, and driver along a challenging route passing through arid landscape and later on single-lane, unpaved roads with no shoulders (just rocks and waterfalls on one side and plunges to deep ravines on the other side) and entered the area through a lush cloud forest with plants and animals of unusual sizes, colors, and shapes. We were able to mountain bike some of the way to the Manu Cloud Forest Lodge where we would spend the night. My mom insisted on biking up front so she would not have to watch anyone (especially me) navigate the turns and heavily-bumped road!). Before we retired to our rooms, we were able to view the Peruvian national bird, the Andean Cock of the Rock. These birds have black lower-body feathers and red upper-body feathers. They have red feathers covering their beaks in an unusual sort of rounded hood. From a viewing point, we were able to view about seven males from a close range. Afterwards, we returned to our lodge (next to a rushing river) for the night where we dined and shared the lodge with a group from Lima.

The next day, we travelled by van for about three hours and then boarded a small wooden motorboat so we could navigate the Alto Madre de Dios River. As we did so, we were able to view countless birds, capybaras, side-necked turtles, white and black caymans, and even a jaguar. We stopped a number of times, once to swim briefly in the river, another time to enjoy some hot springs and finally to see a large village by the name of Boca Manu. The villagers there were distracted from the high heat by watching a national parade on t.v. celebrating Peru's Independence Day. After a bit more than seven hours, we got off the boat at a small path where several lodge staff members were standing. They took our luggage by boat and we walked (through the jungle) to the Manu Lodge, a screen-windowed establishment located on Oxbow Lake, home to many species. There, we enjoyed a catamaran ride after bailing out water and resident fish. We saw many birds and a monkey, but none of the rare giant otters that live there. After dinner at the lodge, we were able to see the brilliant night sky very clearly due to the lack of light pollution.

In the morning, we took another catamaran ride at dawn to spot more birds and hopefully some monkeys. We were successful. We returned to the lodge for breakfast and then went on a hike of the surrounding rain forest. Countless types of flora and fauna were visible. After lunch, we appreciated some rest time, considering the somewhat oppressive nature of the humidity. In the afternoon, we enjoyed a catamaran ride to a trailhead. After a short hike, we reached a viewpoint from which to watch the sunset of the forest. Despite the heat, humidity, mosquitos and biting flies, it was well worth it. The view of the skyline was stunning. Soon afterwards we delighted in seeing the Southern Cross from the water on on short paddle back to the lodge.

The following morning, we departed from the lodge and went by boat to a ranger station where we signed the visitor log for the park before we continued on to Colorado, a pretty scuzzy gold mining town. Here, the guide got a taxi, which we rode to another small town where the guide encountered some issues regarding the ferry tickets. Somehow this was resolved, and we found ourselves on a wooden motorboat crossing a river polluted by the processes of gold mining. On the other side, the guide found another taxi, which we took to the bus station. The guide left us here, and we continued on past several tarp cities that were for gold miners. Not the happiest route that we've taken. After an hour or so, we arrived in Puerto Maldonado, where we would spend the night before leaving in the morning by plane for Lima. Fortunately, in Lima we had time to get to downtown Lima where we enjoyed another round of ceviche and some sightseeing around the Plaza de Armas. Later that evening my mom and I left Lima first on the start of a long journey (with enough time in Atlanta for a tour of CNN) and my dad left early the next morning but managed to get home before us.

What a month it was! Thanks for reading the blog. Check back for next adventure.

Photos

Check out more photos at:

http://www.flickr.com/photos/wanderingkayaks/

Tuesday, July 20, 2010

Lake Titikaka

After taking our classes early on Friday, we got on a bus and took a seven-hour ride to the small town of Puno on the shore of Lake Titikaka, the highest (3,812 meters) navigable lake in the world. We spent the night in a local hotel (arranged by the tour operator) in which we were probably the only guests due to the fact that it is winter and the off season here. The next day, after we ate breakfast wearing gloves (most places here do not have heating), we embarked in a tour boat for the Uros Floating Islands. There are about 50 of these manmade reed structures in the lake. As we left the boat and stepped onto one of the islands (there are quite a few of islands, each about the size of a large backyard), we were greeted by islanders in traditional clothing. They were singing a song of welcome in Quechua, their native language. As our group walked across the reeds that had been placed together in thick layers to form a surface that was soft and mildly squishy, we took a seat on a semi-circular bench woven out of reeds. We were given a brief lecture on the lake and its people, a small-scale example of how the islands are made and maintained, as well as an example of how the natives used to barter with other natives. Then the islanders dressed us up in native clothing and marketed their handicrafts to us, such as embroidery and small toy boats woven from reeds. Next, we took a ride on a fancy reed boat with two-leveled patio for sitting. We were taken to another nearby island this way. The new island was very touristy and sported several gift shops. We also learned that only 30% of the people who work on the islands giving tours and selling things live on the islands. 70% just play the part and actually live on land in Puno. It is sad to see that the Uros Islands have been so commercialized. Regardless, it was an experience that is only to be found in Peru.

Next, we took the motorboat to the island of Amantani, home to about 5,000 people, most of whom are natives and speak Quechua. Due to some mildly rough conditions, we were unable to dock in the normal port, and needed to dock on the opposite side of the island. We trekked uphill in some rather intense winds (difficult in the altitude) until we reached the village of our host families. While doing so, we were able to observe the many ancient farming terraces around the island. A number of native women in traditional clothing came to collect us and walk us to their homes. Our “host mother´s” name was Cecilia. She spoke Quechua and a little Spanish. She walked us to her family´s home, a mud brick house around a small dirt courtyard. Staying with a local family is the only lodging available in Amantani, and the family (prearranged by the tour operator) was warm and welcoming. Cecilia introduced us to her husband, eldest daughter (who lives nearby and has a young child), middle daughter (who lives at home and has two young children), and her youngest daughter, Celia, who is fourteen and was very excited to meet someone her age. Their resources were few (no electricity, running water, or heating) but Cecilia prepared a delicious and nutritious lunch that is common on the island: quinoa soup, fried salty cheese, many types of potatoes, and muña tea (muña is a native herb that tastes similar to mint and has medicinal value). Next it was off to the highest point on the island (as well the main temple for natives) to watch the sunset over the huge lake. The hike up was strenuous and the air was chilling, but the untouched beauty of the sunset was unmatched. As darkness surrounded the island, we walked back to our home stay. Despite the remote nature of the island as well as the level of poverty on the island, they had an old foosball table, and Celia and I played in the dark with a flashlight illuminating the game. She seemed thrilled to have someone of her same age with whom to play.

Dinner consisted of a delicious vegetable soup as well as chopped potatoes with vegetables, eggs, and rice with more muña tea. At the house, we ate all of our meals in the small kitchen with mud walls and floor in which there was only room for three people to sit at the table as well as a fire on which to cook. Afterwards, Celia dressed us up in some native dress clothes and walked us (with her father) to a small dance that was put on for the foreigners in a community building. Under a single light bulb, host families and tourists alike danced to the music of locals playing traditional instruments, such a drums, pan flutes, flutes, and small stringed instruments (called churango). We all held hands and moved around quickly in circles for songs that would go on for long periods of time. On occasion, one of the tourists (we met a couple from Ireland, and couple from Denmark with a 13 year-old daughter, and group of four from Indiana, among others) would change the direction, speed, or shape of the circle. Exhausted, we returned to our homestay and slept on a bed. We wondered how someone got all of the objects in the room (beds, chairs, closet) to such a remote island and up such a steep hill. The mattress was quite interesting; it was consisted of a foam pad on top of a bundle of dried reeds.

In the morning, we awoke and ate breakfast: a form of pancakes with jam, fried bread, and muña tea. We were given red flower necklaces by our houst family. There was a small ceremony at the local library in which the tourists who had brought books, toys, and other school supplies gave the gifts to the children in the kindergarden. Having brought it along to practice my Spanish, I gave a copy of The Little Prince in Spanish to the library. [Also, the host families received money (from the tour company) for hosting us as well as some gifts in food and other objects that we brought for them.]

We left the island and continued on by motorboat to Taquile, another small island nearby. Another hearty hike was required to enter the town. Claimed by UNESCO to have the finest handicrafts in the world, making items (such as hats, blankets, and belts) is a way of life on the island for almost everyone. By the age of five girls AND boys know how to knit, and we even saw an old man sitting outside of a shop knitting what seemed to be a hat. The people of the island are very shy, and girls (selling woven bracelets) would approach us and whisper to us in order to sell their items. It was quite unusual. For lunch, we enjoyed a traditional meal of trout during which the guide explained the meaning of all of the traditional clothes on the island. For example, one can tell if a man is married depending on his hat.

Afterwards, we departed by boat for Puno, the port from which we began the journey. After waiting there with a new friend we met who had been on the same tour, eating dinner and dessert, as well as riding a motorcycle rickshaw (quite common in Puno), we boarded our bus to Cusco. It was a luxury bus, but there was only one problem: the air conditioner was on for almost all seven hours and no one could override it. It was about 48 Degrees Fahrenheit. Other than the bus ride back, the trip was an amazing experience that we are still processing.

Here´s a link to the photos: http://m.flickr.com/#/photos/wanderingkayaks/

Thursday, July 15, 2010

Starting School

Today we began our studies at La Academia Latinoamerica, a Spanish school with a location in Cusco. The flexible program allows travelers to study for weeks (even months) at a time. Yesterday we met our instructors (we both have private instruction). The first two hours of class are for grammer and the second half is for practical application of the language (i.e. reading in Spanish, listening to a song in Spanish). There are also extracurricular activities. Today we took salsa dancing lessons.

We went to the museo de sitio del qoricancha this morning. It was interesting to see how the Incas purposely mal-formed the shape of their children's heads using small frames. People with the most elongated heads were considered the most elite. By the way, mothers and midwives were in charge of that body modification.

Today we also took some time to plan some travel to the Amazon when my dad comes to Peru. While doing so, there was a rather large strike of construction workers invovling riot police with their shields. I almost thought that I would have to use my knowledge from The Worst Case Scenario Guide, in the article "How to Escape a Riot". Luckily, everything was rather calm.

Tuesday, July 13, 2010

Sacred Valley

Yesterday was a full day of touring the Sacred Valley of the Incas. Departing early in the morning by bus, we drove past steep valley walls that had been terraced in the time of the Incas in order to grow many varieties of potatoes as well as fruits and corn. Many of the areas are still used today. After the tour stopped for a while at a market (in which I learned about various Incan instruments), we proceeded on to the Pisac ruins, an impressive Incan establishment for the upper class. Also, on the hike up to the highest point of the site (it was built on a hill), we were able to see holes in the other side of a small valley in which Incan mummies were placed in a fetal position. It is amazing the quality with which the Incans built. Many modern-day adobe houses in the Sacred Valley have collapsed after less than 10 years due to the weather, but Incan sites that are at least 700 years old still stand as they did when they were built.

After enjoying the gorgeous view (with the snow covered tips of Andes showing from behind the surrounding hills), we proceeded on to Pisac Market with the tour. One of the oldest markets in South America, it is frequented by tourists (who come to buy gifts) and locals (who come to buy household items, foods, roasted guinea pig, and many types of potatoes. We enjoyed this outdoor market by observing the locals in their traditional dress and selling various items. We bought some unusual potatoes to give to our host family.

Next was Urubamba, a town that is small and not particularly unusual, except for the beautiful valley in which it sits. That is were we had lunch. We found that cows' feet are not something to seek in the future.

We then moved on to Ollantaytambo, a pretty town built on top of Inca ruins. The most impressive part was climbing the 240 stairs up the currently unused Incan terraces (I nearly fell off of one) to an Incan fortress that was never completed due to the arrival of the Spanish. The rocks that make up part of the astronomical center are so large and well carved that it is hard to believe that they were put in place without modern technology. The view from the top of the hill was even more unbelievable. The sides of the valley bore interesting rock formations and more Inca buildings. Once again, we were able to see small bit of the Andes. It was amazing.

Finally, we went to Chinchero, a small mountain town in which we watched native women and girls in traditional dress clean, spin, dye, and weave alpaca wool. It was very quaint feeling.

Once again, 'twas a busy day, but today was less so. This morning, we took our placement test for our Spanish school. Afterwards, we went on a tour of the city (entirely in Spanish) with the other students at the school. Following lunch, we returned to the school for a student orientation, which informed us about the city and Peruvian customs. We then returned to our host family.

Our host family owns a tour company and they are preparing to have a group of runners run part of the Inca trail. Walking, this takes about four days. They will try to run it in one day. We helped the family shop for some of the food that they will require on the trail. Considering how much food was purchased, they will probably eat a lot.

Saturday, July 10, 2010

Cusco city tour

Lots to see today. We went on a tour of the city that started by visiting Qorikancha (golden courtyard). In Incan times, it was the Temple of the Sun. The specially carved stone walls were at one point covered in gold leaf and many riches (silver, gold, precious stones) were placed in the area for religious reasons. But when the Spanish showed up, they took all of the gold and silver and melted it into bars. They also tore down some of the buildings, creating the church of Santo Domingo. Next we went to the La Catedral in La Plaza de Armas. The huge church had a large main cathedral (lavishly decorated with at least 100 gigantic paintings, gold, carved wood, silver, and other riches) and two smaller cathedrals (one on each side of the main room). One particularly interesting painting was of the last supper with a Peruvian twist on the cuisine featured including cuy (guinea pig) and a jug of what was probably chicha (a corn beverage). It is sad that it was built using stones and other materials pilfered from an Inca site and that it was built (over the course of about 100 years) by Incan hands starting in 1559.

After that, we visited Saqsaywaman, an Incan fort built in 1431. It took 77 years to complete this area of religious and military significance due to the materials: Large rocks, some of them weigh hundreds of tons, were hoisted into a hillside to create a series of walls and terraces. But due to the Spanish, only the foundations of these structures remain. This was followed by a visit to Tambomachay, a ceremonial bath area, including a spring that the Incans channeled through fountainds. They still function today.

Next up was Qénqo, a sacred sanctuary of worship to fertility, featuring a a carved monolith that could be a puma (no one knows) and a cave in which historians believe that animals such as llamas were sacrificed. Finally, we were taken to a factory where alpaca wool is turned into clothing. We were taught the difference between clothing that is fake alpaca and real alpaca. ("You want to make sure that it is made of the wool of a baby alpaca, not a maybe alpaca.")

´Twas a busy day.

Friday, July 9, 2010

Arriving in Cusco

Yesterday we departed from the Lima airport in a relatively small plane and headed towards Cusco, a town nestled in the Andes at 11,000 feet of altitude and the location of our Spanish school. The town and the surrounding area has a population of about one million, but it is sprawled over quite a large area. During the short flight, we had an amazing view of the tops of the Andes poking throught the clouds.

When we arrivied there, we were picked up by our host family and taken to their lovely home where we enjoyed a large lunch (common in Peru). We got to know the family: Maria, Ruben, their 27 year-old daughter Elizabeth, her three year-old daughter Valeria, and Florencia, their maid. Visiting for lunch was Alejandro, Maria and Ruben´s adult son and his five year-old, also named Alejandro. After relaxing and unpacking, we had a light dinner of bread and tea (also common in Peru) with our host family and some of their out-of-town relations. The altitude change made us very tired.

Today we awoke and walked into the city with Elizabeth. The smog here is almost as difficult to breath in as that of Lima, but the small surrounding mountains are beautiful. We visited the huge market, where Elizabeth purchased a type of trout, sugar cane, avocados, and several other fruits. The market was swarming with life. One could get a haircut, fish eggs, octopus, matches, and just about anything that anyone would need on a daily basis. After that, we visited the Spanish school that we will be attending. Then we returned to the house for lunch and some resting. For dessert, we had a purple pudding made from corn. It was somewhat runny with small chunks of fruit. It was an aquired taste.

After some resting, we returned to the town just in time to see a parade, featuring many dance students in traditional costumes. The parade was in celebration of a school´s anniversary . After watching the parade, we went back to the Spanish school to purchase of tickets for various tours this weekend.

Here, many people wear modern clothing, but it is also very interesting to see the number of older women who dress in traditional Andean-style clothing. It consists of black sandals, a knee-length black skirt, a blouse covered by a vibrant tradional poncho-style scarf, long black braided hair, and a women´s top hat. There are many incorporations of the Andean culture into daily life.